Question 1

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   steepness
B)   height
C)   length
D)   period
E)   speedF) A) and B)
G) C) and D)

Question 2

Waves that travel through each other tend to cancel each other out and cease to exist on the far side of the passing zone.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 3

A shallow-water wave has an L of 7 m. At which one of the following heights would it break?

Accepted Answer

A)   0.1 m
B)   0.4 m
C)   0.7 m
D)   0.9 m
E)   1.1 mF) A) and B)
G) A) and C)

Question 4

The orbital motion of a deep-water wave extends to a depth equal to ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   twice the wavelength
B)   the wave's height
C)   one-half the wavelength
D)   one-half the wave's height
E)   the seafloor depthF) A) and B)
G) A) and C)

Question 5

The equation C = gT/2л is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep-water wave.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 6

Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Shallow-water waves will change direction as they...

Question 7

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 8

The speed of a shallow-water wave at a depth of 5 m is ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   0.2 m/s
B)   0.4 m/s
C)   0.5 m/s
D)   7 m/s
E)   7.8 m/sF) A) and B)
G) B) and E)

Question 9

When the water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 10

Wave refraction results in ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   wave energy concentrating in bays
B)   wave energy decreasing in bays
C)   wave energy focusing on headlands
D)   wave energy concentrating in bays and wave energy focusing on headlands
E)   wave energy decreasing in bays and wave energy focusing on headlandsF) None of the above
G) B) and C)

Question 11

A wave breaks when ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   h/L = 1/7
B)   L/h = 1/7
C)   h = 3 m
D)   L = 3 m
E)   L/h = 3/7F) C) and E)
G) B) and C)

Question 12

Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Accepted Answer

The answer of Water particles in deep-water waves move in...

Question 13

A long wave with a period of about 15 minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   2 m/sec
B)   20 m/sec
C)   200 m/sec
D)   2 km/sec
E)   20 km/secF) A) and B)
G) B) and C)

Question 14

In a closed basin, a single-node standing wave oscillation tends to have a wavelength that is ________ the basin length.

Accepted Answer

A)   one-quarter
B)   one-half
C)   the same as
D)   twice
E)   four timesF) A) and E)
G) None of the above

Question 15

Storm waves in the open sea are likely to be less steep and break less often than waves in the surf zone.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 16

Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   diffraction
B)   refraction
C)   reflection
D)   All of these are correct.
E)   None of these is correct.F) A) and C)
G) B) and D)

Question 17

The amplitude of a wave is about ________ the wave height.

Accepted Answer

A)   one-fourth
B)   one-half
C)   the same as
D)   twice
E)   four timesF) B) and D)
G) D) and E)

Question 18

A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio, H/L, reaches ________.

Accepted Answer

A)   1:10
B)   1:8
C)   1:7
D)   1:5
E)   1:2F) C) and D)
G) C) and E)

Question 19

The diameter of wave orbitals increases with increasing depth.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Question 20

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

Accepted Answer

A) True 
 B)False

Exam 8: The Waves

There is no vertical motion at the antinode of a standing wave.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The amplitude of a wave is about ________ the wave height.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Waves that travel through each other tend to cancel each other out and cease to exist on the far side of the passing zone.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

A water wave reaches an unstable breaking point when the steepness ratio, H/L, reaches ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

A long wave with a period of about 15 minutes will travel across the oceans at a speed of approximately ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

In a closed basin, a single-node standing wave oscillation tends to have a wavelength that is ________ the basin length.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Water particles in deep-water waves move in ________ orbits.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The equation C = gT/2л is appropriate to determine the speed of a deep-water wave.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The speed of a shallow-water wave at a depth of 5 m is ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Storm waves in the open sea are likely to be less steep and break less often than waves in the surf zone.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The orbital motion of a deep-water wave extends to a depth equal to ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

A shallow-water wave has an L of 7 m. At which one of the following heights would it break?

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Wave refraction results in ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The diameter of wave orbitals increases with increasing depth.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Shallow-water waves will change direction as they approach shore in a process called ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

When the water depth is between L/2 and L/20, the wave speed is constant.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

A wave breaks when ________.

Correct AnswerverifiedShow Answer

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